ROYAL CUISINE – 19TH CENTURY
According to the book “An Nam Phong Tuc Sach” by Doan Trien (1854-1919), royal banquets were divided into three categories:
First class banquet: includes 12 cups, bowls and 12 plates.
Second class banquet: includes 8 cups, bowls and 8 plates.
Third class banquet: includes 6 or 4 bowls, bowls and plates.
The number of tables in each type of party depends on the number of guests. The food is diverse, including chicken, duck, buffalo, beef, seafood, fish maw, fish fins, but pork and sticky rice are two indispensable dishes. There are also dried dishes such as ham, spring rolls, candies and fruits. The food is displayed on copper trays and served on mats for guests to enjoy. Wine is a drink that must be available and comfortable at the party.
According to custom, after the party ends, each guest is given a portion of dried food to take home. There is a proverb “thuc cu, thu phan”, meaning “eat a feast and take a portion”. If a guest forgets to take a portion, the host must bring it to the guest’s house to give it to them.
Author Doan Trien commented that the value of the gift for the guest is equivalent to a portion of the guest’s meal. He believes that just eating and drinking to the fullest is enough, so the custom of taking the food home should be abandoned because it is expensive.
