COURT CUISINE – 19TH CENTURY
According to the book “An Nam Phong Tuc Sach” by Doan Trien (1854-1919), the royal banquet was divided into three categories:
- First class banquet: includes 12 cups, bowls and 12 plates.
- Second class banquet: includes 8 cups, bowls and 8 plates.
- Third class banquet: includes 6 or 4 bowls, cups and plates.
The number of tables in each type of banquet depends on the number of guests. The food is diverse, including chicken, duck, buffalo, beef, seafood, fish maw, fish fins, but pork and sticky rice are two indispensable dishes. There are also dried dishes such as ham, spring rolls, candies and fruits. The food is displayed on bronze trays and served on mats for guests to enjoy. Wine is a drink that must be available and enjoyed freely at the banquet.
According to custom, after the banquet ends, each guest is given a portion of dried food to take home. There is a proverb that says “thuc cu, thu phan”, which means “eat a feast and take a portion”. If a guest forgets to take a portion, the host must bring it to the house and give it to them. Author Doan Trien commented that the value of the gift given to a guest is equivalent to a portion of the guest’s meal. He believes that just eating and drinking to your heart’s content is enough, so the custom of taking the meal home should be abandoned because it is expensive.
